The winter is arriving at the sertão and with it, a small river starts to cut the mountain ranges of the Seridó of potiguar (Rio Grande do Norte) and paraibano (Paraíba), proving the popular principle of that "soft water in hard rock, beats until it pierces" standing out with its persistence and the will to win challenges. It is the river Picui, which is born in the neighboring state of Paraíba and arrives to potiguar in Currais Novos, winning against a set of mountain ranges to empty from there into the river Acauã which continues to the barrage (dam) of Gargalheiras.
Along this passage of the small river appears beautiful panorama of nature, Os Apertados, practically still virgin, in terms of tourist exploration. To arrive there it is necessary to follow the highway that binds Currais Novos to Acari until you pass the Brejuí Mine, which is on the right. On the left there is a sign for the Fazenda Barra Verde, after which you will pass through several properties. A certain stretch can only be accessed on foot.
The extra effort is compensated by the peace and harmony of the region. The walk, during the summer, is made along the dry stream bed of the river surrounded by leafy algarrobas, brightening up the intense heat. In the months of April and May, when it is winter, the passage is more difficult, always along the edges of the river. As everything that is more difficult is gostoso (awesome). Os Apertados are not different. The force of waters of the river Picui advancing on the borders of the mountain range does not remind one, in any way, that we are in full northeastern sertão (desert).
In the summer, almost nothing remains of the river between the mountain ranges. But small ponds of water, in some stretches, which allows the animals to satisfy their thirst, mainly during the night, when they leave for hunting. The vegetation of caatinga also is a difference. The small typical plants of the sertão seem to leave the rocks, occupying all spaces, mainly the highest ones. They are truely suspended gardens.
But not everybody has access to this paradise. Due to the aggressions that the visitors left in the region, the proprietor of the land decided to limit entrance. They left much garbage and paintings on the rocks. Now, visits are only with authorization.
They have a project so that Os Apertados would transform into an area of leisure and visitation for the tourist, who there, beyond the meditation and contemplation, will be able to exercise camping, trekking and rapel. Not forgetting ecological tourism.
On the way for Os Apertados, the first stop is the Fazenda Barra Verde, whose house headquarters is a beautiful building that in very reminding of a North American farm. It was, during many years, the residence of the appeals court judge Tomaz Salustino, the old owner of the Brejuí Mine. Today, the farm belongs to and is kept by the heirs and has plans to be transformed into a hotel fazenda (guest ranch), that ecological and adventure tourism would be offered, horse back rides and a good table, based of the regional typical foods. The original great house was constructed in December of 1912, however it suffered alterations over time and today it has 14 rooms, some suites, verandas, rooms for dining, a pantry and kitchen, everything distributed in two floors.
The next stage to the passeio leads for Os Apertados, still by automobile, is an old farm constructed in nineteenth century that still it keeps unbroken its characteristics and the furniture of the time.
It is the farm Aba da Serra, which served as home for Colonel Jose Heifer of Araújo. In the headquarters of the farm there is a set of three building, formed by the great house and two minor ones, all with walls of taipa, typical style of a sertanejo house, without any ornament or alteration. In the columnar house of the Colonel still the old attic can be seen, whose access was a great strong brick stairs, the dormitories, the dining room and the kitchen with the old brick stoves that burnt firewood.
From the farm Aba da Serra a tract leads to the riverbed of the Rio Picui, but before we arrive there we have to pass through another farm, where really Os Apertados meet. Along the riverbed, the passage must be made by foot, between leafy algarrobas and plants of the caatinga.
Texto and photos: Hélio Cavalcanti - Destino do Sol
Tradution by Donald Reid
